The rhythm of a pilgrim

 5 Days of walking and I find myself in Monesterio; a town just over the border of the state of Extremadura. Since leaving Seville I've walked over 110 km, seen some amazing parts of Spain and met some of the nicest and most caring people.


The days seem to have started flowing into one. A certain rhythm has started to take over. There's this drive that keeps us all moving and constantly wanting to get to the next place. And then, there's this other drive, that wishes to keep us in the moment, savouring each landscape, each stage and each day. And as this happens, everything else that was something of a worry or concern, up until a week ago, becomes irrelevent

In doing this pilgrimage, and therefore being a part of something of a community, I've had moments of feeling as if I'm on a tour. It's the strangest thing. But I've realized it's because every walker that started out on the 5th of April from Seville, is walking the same stages each day. So everyone ends up in the same village and often the same hostel, every evening. I've been reminded of my tour guiding days, quite a few times. I've even contemplated WHO is the GUIDE on this particular tour? Who has organized this Camino? Who is the person that marked the way, with these yellow arrows guiding us all safely to a hostel every evening, where we can wash, eat and sleep before setting off again out into the Spanish landscape the next morning? Who made this possible? Well, this post isn't about the history of the Camino. Instead, I'll say that all of us walkers or pilgrims, are the creator of our own tour. We may be following the same yellow arrows and staying in similar hostels. But, we as individuals, are making our walk ourselves. It's our own experience, serving an individual purpose.

Even still... I couldn't help but talk about this feeling of being on a 'tour' with one of the other ladies this week. And most will feel the same way. It's not a bad thing though. Especially if you're walking alone - which I am (most of the time). With familiar faces coming together in the evening, after a long walk in solitude, it brings those hours of pacing alone back into balance. It's also brilliant to practise European languages, to get tips, to support others and to exchange experiences - be they good or not so good.

I can't really say I've had moments that weren't so good. Well, a part from the blisters on my feet. That's actually quite an issue right now. I don't think I've ever seen my feet in such a condition before. I've around 10 blisters at the moment, and they're not really healing yet, because my boots get wet (if I'm passing through a stream) and the blisters moisten.... Ouch... (but I won't go into further detail... it's not too rosey). Other than that, today I had a small slip walking through water. Nothing major though - just more handwashing ;) and I lost my lenses (now I'll be wearing my glasses until I'm back in Ireland. I´m not really ecstatic about that, but it's just a matter of getting used to them again).


These few tiny things aren't important at all. Not when I take the massive triumphs I've had, into account. The 3rd day (07-04, from Castilblanco to Almaden), was a highlight for me. For most, it was a dreaded stage, due to it being 30kms. But I was actually on top of the world. Even if the first stretch of 18km was along a hilly, strenuous, monotonous main road. The setting was beautiful though, the sun was shining and I was able to unload the layers of clothes!!!! FINALLY!!!!! As each kilmeter passed, I got more into a zone and loved every step. After the 18kms along the main road, the next 12 passed through a national park and... WOW... I've never felt so alone in the world, but so blessed, grateful, alive alive and oh so alive... as I walked through the hills. It didn't matter that my feet felt as if they were being stabbed with knives. Because my voice was singing, my arms stretched open to the world and the kms made me feel I'd found the centre of the world. Every blister that was swelling, became irrevelent. Such a sight, cured everything. Amazing!

On that same stretch, I met lots of people who I could've walked with. But I wanted to stay in a free state... So I greeted them all, wishing them ´Buen Camino' and I continued walking, in my happy seclusion, taking conscious space.

I've since realized that it really does make a difference whether or not you're walking with someone or going it alone. On the 4th day for example, the stage that took me from from Almaden to Real de la Jara (15km), I walked with a Spanish couple and a Frenchman. That was totally different. It felt more strenuous because I was talking, concentrating on speaking German, trying to follow their Spanish, wanting to take in the beautiful surrounding and also trying to keep the same pace. It was quite hectic to be honest, but I was actually delighted to have done that. Not only did it bring me to open up more, but it also kept my mind distracted from what was happening inside my boots. Yay!

Today, the 5th day, which took me from Real de la Jara to Monesterio, was 22kms. I wanted to do this stretch by myself. And I did. It's probably been the toughest day so far. But that's okay. I know it's impossible not to go through a stages of being challenged. Circumstances, terrain, wheather and energy levels are constantly changing, all adding to the overall experience of everyday. And just before coming online today, I had a chat with a wonderful lady from Holland, who brought me to realize that such a journey is an accumulation of stages and kms. There's no real stepping away from it - even if you do take a day to rest. So I know I'm trying to come into a balance so I can sustain my energy levels, share my company, soak in this experience and trust that by simply going with the flowing rhythm, everything will always be clear - especially whilst wearing these specs!!!!

Sevilla to Guillena

Oh the joys of just GOING, BEING and walking onwards...

Am I now an 'official' pilgrim... just because I have a pilgrim passport in my pocket and a backpack on my back weighing ONLY 8 kilos that contains everything I need so as to keep me physically healthy, happy and jumping for joy, for at least the next... however long I want..? 

What definition can be given to a pilgrim anyway? Most consider it be to those who walk for religious purposes. But I heard something quite striking, these past days... 'a pilgrim is a wanderer with a purpose'. Thats it...!!! Hearing this, I felt so recognized! The individual pilgrim / wanderer / walker determines their own purpose. And my own individual purpose is also defined... For now, Im a wanderer with the purpose of finding strengths on different levels, by means of doing something Ive never done before. Simple... No need to analyze ;)  

This morning, I put my backpack on my back, at 08.30 and left the hostel. I moved away from the centre of Seville, after spending 2 days roaming, exploring, eating tortillas (spanish omelettes) and meeting people from some random walks of life. Amongst others there was an Egyptian guy who has left Egypt for the first time in his life and is amazed by the Western culture;  a heartbroken Turkish girl who is travelling for the first time by herself and in desperate need of company and let me not forget to mention the most handsome Spaniard Ive ever met, who couldnt understand why others can be so inspired by Spain (this was probably the reason for him to be so fascinated by my enthusiasm).

These were lovely people who made my stay in the hostel quite homing. And outside the hostel I had a few random meetings. The most significant one was yesterday morning (Thursday). I was one of the hundreds of cafes in the city centre having breakfast. A girl sat down behind me. When I was about to leave she randomly asked me if I was doing the Camino. I was shocked that she guessed what I was in Spain for! 'The shoes are a giveaway!!!' Of course... Ive got 'walker' written all over me at the moment!

There were definitely forces at work that brought us together. Because she herself had only just arrived in Seville, from Germany, and was starting the first leg of the journey today too. We ended up spending the day together and it was such a blessing... It really got me on track. Any doubts I had about whether or not to do it, subsided. It raised my excitement and I suddenly felt less alone... Because at times, since first arriving in the city, I wondered if I was the only one who was walking the Via de la Plata! However, in a city - with thousands of tourists - it would be almost impossible to find pilgrims and to connect... Let me stress the word ALMOST, because my meeting with this lovely German lady proved that nothing is impossible!

We were going to start walking together. However she had decided to get a bus from the centre of Seville to a town just north of the city, so as not to have to walk through a massively muddy area (which was a result of the unexpected rain thats been falling on this area of Spain for the past weeks). But I decided against the idea of hopping on a bus, just to save myself a muddy venture. And this morning, as I left the city, I was of course met with a stretch of slush that was quite daunting... I wasnt alone however in getting through the slog. Because, just as I left the city, I met 2 other ladies from Austria, who I walked the first 10 kms with. We helped each other and - even though small parts of myself wanted to be alone - I was so grateful not to be doing that muddy stretch without their help.

After 10 kms we met another lady, from Australia. And before I knew where I was, Id left the Austrian women behind, as my pace as speeded up, and was totally engrossed in spending some kms with this lady from downunder. Our pace was quite similar too.

As we walked and chatted about some quite cool stuff, we were greeted by other walkers, everyone wishing each other well, yet individually sticking to their own pace.

Because of the massive rainfall, some of the rivers had burst their banks, so we were told by roadworkers to walk along the national highway. And we did - getting drenched along the way, as the huge thick black clouds up above opened themselves up. That was actually quite a highlight for me... I felt so ALIVE being one person amongst the strangling walkers, dotted along the highway and being blown to pieces. It was liberating not to have the urge to run for shelter or to HATE what the conditions were bringing us... But to simply say... this will pass... In those moments all you can do is continue walking, and keeping focused... (doing anything else would only drain energy). In that acceptance it didnt matter that the water started seeping into my boots and the poncho didnt withstand the pounching raindrops.

Its true what they say: after rain, the sun always appears... And it did come out...!!!! When the sign for Guillena appeared, showing only 4 more kms to todays destination, the sky was blue again and I was WARM!!!!!!!!! At that same time, Id 'lost' the Australian lady as I was trotting along in my own happy zone and thats was also when I found myself alone for the first time. Wow... I felt so free... as I munched on an energy bar, smiled to the sun, said hello to the cactus and orange trees and waved to all the cars racing by that honked at me as if to say 'Happy Camino!'.

At that stage, yes my feet were aching, my socks were soaked with both sweat and rain... but my body wasnt exhausted. That was probably due to seeing the town of Guillena way off in the distance, but coming closer and closer, with each step.

I made my way through this beautiful typical Spanish village... the white houses were like a postcard and it was so peaceful; Siesta of course!!! It was only 5 hours after I said goodbye to the owner of the hostel in Seville. Great timing!!! I soon found the Albergue - the hostel especially for pilgrims.

As I walked in, I felt I entered a community of wandering souls... all doing this for different reasons, all with different levels of fitness and all with different stories and experiences to share. I realized within minutes though that I wouldnt have the privilege of hearing their stories, as there arent any English speakers.(My German has been coming in handy, even if its not up to scratch.)

For the first time tonight Ill be sharing a dorm room with 9 men - all above the age of 55 or 60. What an interesting scenario. Tomorrow morning everyone will set off again, heading for the same destination, yet at their own pace and with their own individual reason for walking. As will I.

So... reporting from the local library in Guillena, after the first 24kms, Im going to be seeking some dinner, some compeed (for my blistered feet) and Ill follow that by some lovely sleep (with earplugs... because I can only imagine the music that 9 sleeping/snoring men can make!). I wonder what the next legs will bring! It will only be amazing, seeing as my legs will always carry me onwards.